Puffins, Volcanos, and Whales · 8:58pm Jul 13th, 2019
Given the heat wave that consumed Europe in the last few weeks, escaping to the north for a few days surely had its perks. Southwest Iceland was our—me and my family’s—main destination for this trip. It is also the most tourist-frequented part of the island, thus crowds of Japanese and Korean tourists were a pretty common sight, and so was the erosion caused by them, not to speak about newly built fences preventing said erosion. A sad sight for a biologist that would like to get off the beaten path for a while and observe the surrounding flora and fauna more closely. I admit that in a few cases, observing certain entomofauna in a vial that’d then slip into my pocket would be even better. Anyway, that didn’t work out in the end.
But let’s take a step back and lay our scene first.
It was just past midnight when our plane touched down on the runway. However, it surely didn’t seem as such a time of night. There were no stars, no moon, no inky black skies. Just dim, evening light. While the sun dips below the horizon this time of year, it doesn’t go ‘too deep’ and thus a slight polar day was what we got to put up with for the whole week.
Our camp in Selfoss was still two hours by bus away. The journey itself was a strange one, through vast plains, lava fields and around sloping hills, with the occasional pastures and red and white farms scattered inbetween. Geothermal pipes could be occasionally seen snaking through the ghostly vacant land and thin streams of smoke rising among the cracked, moss-covered stones were a rather common sight.
While I have to say I enjoy such a way of describing, I’m afraid it might bore you soon. Besides, the blog itself would be awfully long. So, what follows is my collenction of photos along with some little remarks.
A view of the Atlantic ocean from the Black beach, (almost) the southernmost part of the main island. If you look closely at the black-ish silhouettes of the birds swimming there, you can see the outlines of large, colourful beaks. That’s the famous Atlantic puffin (Fratercula arctica). Icelandic tourisms is largely based on this unique birds, with the gift shops offering anything you can think of with puffins on it. (Real stuffed puffins included.) However, the influx of tourists also seems to disturb the birds greatly, their nesting sites slowly moving further north, away from all the commotion.
One guide described the puffin as a ‘cute little duckie’. I wanted to object, since puffins and ducks aren’t closely related... However, I have to admit, she was right. It’s a (rubber) duckie.
A few photos from Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands), notably the only inhabited isle Heimaey with a town by the same name. It has been partially destroyed by the eruption of Eldfell in 1973, the volcano you can see on the left. Walking through the lava field, you can find signs with the names of streets buried under the stones and ash. The large purple patches is an invasive lupine Lupinus nootkatensis, a species planted here for the sake of fixing local unstable soils. It got just a tad out of hand.
Baking a wheat roll for lunch in the hot gases coming from within Eldfell. Swampy, the green horse-like afrotherium is keeping it company. I have found that it’s better to take photos of him in interesting places. Definitely beats taking selfies.
Side note: He was made for me a few years ago as a surprise gift by my grandma after she saw but a glimpse of some Hedvika concept art.
Photos of Strokkur, currently the most visited geyser—as you can see by the crowds around. The original Geysir that gave name to all geysers is nearby, albeit it’s mostly inactive by now, despite the locals’ effort (For example throwing soap into the geyser for some reason. Not sure what that was supposed to accomplish).
Sólheimajökull, a part of Mýrdalsjökull glacier. An insanely large piece of ice and compressed snow. A truly inspiring sight for my future works ;)
Waterfall Seljalandfoss, a really enchanting place, falling from as high as sixty meters.
Icelandic horses and a pair of common eiders (Somateria mollissima)—male is the more colourful one, the female is more cryptic. Both were a really common sight.
A view from the dome of Perlan, a water tank and museum in Reykjavík. The volcano in the distance is Snæfellsjökull, most famous for the part it played in Jules Verne’s Journey to the Center of the Earth. Alsonotice how many building are just being renovated or build anew in the capital to accommodate for the large influx of tourists.
A photo of minke whale (Balaenoptera acutorostrata) feeding. Notice the birds (mostly seagulls) swarming around taking advantage of the large concentration of food in one spot.
Also, speaking of whales, the Icelanders are allowed to hunt them to an extent, with almost all the meat then eaten by tourists. The flesh is brownish, salty and quite tough, but tasty in a way.
It was definitely an interesting trip, the seashore towns reminded me of my time in Copenhagen, some local tourists traps slightly disgusted me—but I also understand their importance for the locals—and the vast plains where physical endurance was the only needed skill to survive helped me clear my head remarkably. (Now that was awfully wordy sentence!) Should I ever return there, it’d be into the far less populated areas in the more northern parts of Iceland.
On a side note, I’m in Hungary right now. And due to a certain turn of events, I’ll be completely without internet connection presumably till July 18th. So, should I not respond fast, know that I’m not ignoring you.
Woah, Iceland looks really interesting place to visit. Seems like someone is having a cool summer.
I've never actually knew anything about Iceland, but you've showed me that It's a place worth visiting!
Thank you, and I hope you enjoy your summer! 
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Funny thing is, I originally wanted it to be Ireland, but it somehow ended up like this.
Thank you
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Don't worry! It's happens to the best of us.
Aw, I was getting lost in the story you were telling.
That's really interesting, sad that the birds have to move their nests though. It reminds me of my days in grade school, there was this one bird that would come to lay eggs every years in this one specific spot on a rocky ridge near my school. Any one could walk over to it so the physical education teacher put up cones every year around the spot to keep people away, and also hung up a sign because the bird would ward off any unwanted attention that came to the nest. In the present day, there are newly hatched birds who's parents try to dive bomb me every other day when I go to work.
Once again, Ever is clever.
That's really cool!
Come on, Ever, clearly it was supposed to clean the geyser and make it nice and shiny for tourists.
Okay, I really couldn't type that with a straight face. 
I'm sorry for my bad puns. 
I look forward to hearing about this when you get around to it.
Really? I could have sworn whaling was frowned upon in this day and age. At least I think there was an issue with Japan hunting orca whales a few years back. I'd have to look that up again, but this is interesting to say the least.
Oh? What about them disturbed you?
I'll say, you said a mouth full. But I'm happy you were able to clear your head, you'd be amazed at what a clear head can accomplish. Though I'll admit you're sentence was wordy, check this wordy video out. The flying fox sent it to me, so you know it's good.
His words, not mine. 
That's great, but I don't know what you being hungry has to do with a travel blog.
I'm just messing with you, don't worry, I promise you this is my last bad pun. 
Future traveling plans!
In all seriousness this was a fun blog, you've certainly been to a few places. Blogs like this remind me that I'd really like to travel the world at some point, my uncle used to tell me to do so while I was young and take lots of pictures. I look forward to another travel blog from you!
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Glad you enjoyed reading this
Really. Whaling was never fully banned, but I believe the problem with Japan is that they don’t respect the given limits.
Hard to say, to be honest. Just look up Blue Lagoon.
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Japan has just restarted commercial whaling again, first time in 30 years. (although small coastal whalers never really stopped, but that's barely ever mentioned) Didn't stop the so called 'scientific' whaling though, talk about a loophole
Landscape description sounds like a large version of Equestria's Ghastly Gorge.
Cherish Swampy, that's brilliant.
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Not sure about orcas, they are mainly after minke whales.
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I did a bit of research, and apparently the issue with Japan was that a few years ago they were whaling not just minke whales as Boulder pointed out, but also the endangered humpback whales, which due to their endangered title means no one should be hunting them at all. They were doing so in international waters where no one could enforce any laws on whaling if there had been any, and were also doing so in the humpback's breeding grounds. At some point, about nine years ago, there was a crew trying to stop the whalers and a video made it to the U.S. news of one of their ships being rammed. Apparently the video that was shown didn't show the sunken boat messing with the whaling operations on board, the video only showed the boat stalled in the water and then the whaling ship ramming full speed into it.
Interesting stuff.
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Thank you for clarifying, I was too busy/lazy to look it up
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It is quite like it, though sadly there were no Quarry Eels. And Swampy is with me in Hungary right now, and I definitely cherish his company 
Interesting
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That's okay, I do all the research no one else wants to. 
I hope Hungary is treating you well. 
Ever was to lazy to do research.
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It has been really nice so far, and I hope that’s not gonna change. I have another week to go before returning home 
Let’s just say there were more pressing matters on my mind
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Still got a panda teddy bear my late mum purchased for me when I was still in the cradle. All these years later and he sits in my bedroom cupboard, something to remind me of her.
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Aww, that’s sad and heartwarming at the same time